Day 19 – June 24, 2008
It’s Tuesday and we’re still sailing south through the very scenic Tongass National Forest on the Inside Passage aboard the Alaska state ferry “Columbia.”
After breakfast we attended a talk by the on-board US Forest Service naturalist, “Brett,” on Alaskan Bears, both Black and Brown. Polar bears also inhabit Alaska, but only in the farthest northern regions of Arctic tundra and ice.
Specifically, Brett’s discussion dealt with the reputation of Alaskan bears. Is their reputation much maligned, or are they in fact vicious creatures looking to devour man at every turn? The answer may be both; however, in most instances bears, whether Black or Brown, really want nothing to do with humans, but they are always looking for food. They only have five or six months of the year to pack on several hundred pounds of fat to see them through six or seven months of winter hibernation. So, don’t look or smell like food.
Bears don’t like surprises. Most bear attacks on humans are the result of humans startling bears during a chance encounter. Most often, bears will give warning of an impending attack by showing stress, oftentimes by grunting, salivating, and making false charges. Brent’s best advice is too puff up and make yourself look as big as possible and talk calmly to the bear while slowly backing away. In most instances, this will result in the bear losing interest and leaving, according to the naturalist. He also advised that bear OC spray is also a good deterrent if push comes to shove. We stocked up on bear spray before leaving home.
If actually attacked by a Brown bear, roll up and play dead, if attacked by a Black back, always fight back, according to Brett. So, it’s important to be able to tell the difference between a Black and a Brown bear—read on my friends. My personal advice is to avoid bears altogether.
We also learned that Kodiak and Grizzly bears are in fact both Brown Bears, and only their geographical location sets them apart from the ordinary Brown Bear. Furthermore, one can tell a Black Bear from a Brown Bear, not by their color, but by their snout, back and claws, if you want to get that close. The Black Bear is a climber with short claws. It has a face like a Collie with a straight line from its forehead to the end of its nose. Whereas, the Brown Bear is a digger with large strong forearms, long claws, and a distinct snout protruding from its face more like a Labrador retriever. The Brown Bear also has distinct hump on the back between the shoulder blades. Both Black and Brown Bears can be black, brown, sandy colored, and even a shade of blue in some remote regions. That’s probably more than you wanted to know about Alaskan bears, but I had to write it down before I forgot it, so please “bear” with me.
The bear presentation reminded me of a story I heard while conducting research for this trip. It discussed the importance of wearing bear bells while hiking in the forest to alert bears of your presence, and to always carry bear OC spray. Equally important was the ability to distinguish Black Bear scat (poop) from Brown/Grizzly Bear scat. It is said that Black Bear scat is filled with nuts and berries and smells like nectar, while Brown/Grizzly Bear scat is full of bear bells and smells like pepper. I think it was a joke, I hope.
During the bear presentation, the otherwise attentive crowd suddenly got to their feet and shouted “Whale.” A large (aren’t they all?) Humpback whale was passing northbound directly adjacent to the starboard (right) side of the ship. It was a truly magnificent sight. It’s not uncommon to see whales on this journey, but to see one so close to the ship was a real treat. The naturalist told us that the Alaskan Humpback whales winter in the Hawaiian Islands and migrate back to the food-rich Alaskan feeding grounds in the summer. The fasted documented return trip from Hawaii to Alaska by a Humpback whale is 28 days. That’s a pretty good pace. We also saw a pod of porpoise approaching the ship, but it was somewhat anticlimactic after the whale sighting.
We made port in Sitka, AK. at 1100 hours for a short three-hour visit, not to be confused with a three-hour cruise, ala Gilligan’s Island. Sitka was the former Russian capital of Alaska before the US purchased it in a move known as Seward’s Ice Box, or Seward’s Folly. The Russians found that Sitka was a rich hunting ground for the prized Sea Otter that had been nearly hunted to extinction in Russia for their pelts. There is still a strong Russian influence in Sitka, with street names, businesses, and curios. There is also an impressive Russian Orthodox Church in the center of town, as well as the Sitka Pioneers Home, probably the largest building in all of Sitka, resembling a large hotel.
Another interesting relic of old Sitka is the reconstructed Fort Tower where the Russians defended their claim to Sitka against the indigenous Tlingit people in a series of fierce battles, which initially drove the Russians out of Sitka. Two years later the Russians returned with a superior force and cannons to reclaim their ill-gotten possession.
Also during the naturalist's presentation, we traversed the Sergius Narrows, where one could nearly reach out and touch the trees going past the ship on either side. The naturalist explained that the three hour layover in Sitka was necessary because of the tides. Apparently, the tides flow through the Sergius Narrows with such velocity, oftentimes exceeding eight knots, that it is not safe to navigate a large ship through the narrows except during times of slack tide where the tide is neither coming in nor going out. Whatever the reason, we appreciated the three hour layover in Sitka.
The naturalist also brought our attention to a small island approaching on the port (left) side of the Narrows where he said the only Pink Flamingos in Alaska are known to exist. The group crowded the port side windows to get a look at such a rare sight. The Naturalist snickered to himself as the island came to bear. There in the tallest tree on the island was a “family” of plastic Pink Flamingos. He got us good on that one.
Some of the passengers were grousing about the low clouds and light rain today. The naturalist replied that, “There is no bad weather in Alaska, only bad gear. So, only your jackets should get dampened, not your spirit.” We should all have such a positive attitude.
We finished the evening aboard the “Columbia” with a nice dinner and after-dinner drinks in the lounge with “Tony," our favorite and only bartender. Although tipping is not allowed on the state owned and operated ferry, we left a few dollars for Tony's disposition. He said," Thanks, I do a lot of work with un-wed mothers," with a wink of an eye. I'm not sure what that meant and I didn't inquire further.
It’s Tuesday and we’re still sailing south through the very scenic Tongass National Forest on the Inside Passage aboard the Alaska state ferry “Columbia.”
After breakfast we attended a talk by the on-board US Forest Service naturalist, “Brett,” on Alaskan Bears, both Black and Brown. Polar bears also inhabit Alaska, but only in the farthest northern regions of Arctic tundra and ice.
Specifically, Brett’s discussion dealt with the reputation of Alaskan bears. Is their reputation much maligned, or are they in fact vicious creatures looking to devour man at every turn? The answer may be both; however, in most instances bears, whether Black or Brown, really want nothing to do with humans, but they are always looking for food. They only have five or six months of the year to pack on several hundred pounds of fat to see them through six or seven months of winter hibernation. So, don’t look or smell like food.
Bears don’t like surprises. Most bear attacks on humans are the result of humans startling bears during a chance encounter. Most often, bears will give warning of an impending attack by showing stress, oftentimes by grunting, salivating, and making false charges. Brent’s best advice is too puff up and make yourself look as big as possible and talk calmly to the bear while slowly backing away. In most instances, this will result in the bear losing interest and leaving, according to the naturalist. He also advised that bear OC spray is also a good deterrent if push comes to shove. We stocked up on bear spray before leaving home.
If actually attacked by a Brown bear, roll up and play dead, if attacked by a Black back, always fight back, according to Brett. So, it’s important to be able to tell the difference between a Black and a Brown bear—read on my friends. My personal advice is to avoid bears altogether.
We also learned that Kodiak and Grizzly bears are in fact both Brown Bears, and only their geographical location sets them apart from the ordinary Brown Bear. Furthermore, one can tell a Black Bear from a Brown Bear, not by their color, but by their snout, back and claws, if you want to get that close. The Black Bear is a climber with short claws. It has a face like a Collie with a straight line from its forehead to the end of its nose. Whereas, the Brown Bear is a digger with large strong forearms, long claws, and a distinct snout protruding from its face more like a Labrador retriever. The Brown Bear also has distinct hump on the back between the shoulder blades. Both Black and Brown Bears can be black, brown, sandy colored, and even a shade of blue in some remote regions. That’s probably more than you wanted to know about Alaskan bears, but I had to write it down before I forgot it, so please “bear” with me.
The bear presentation reminded me of a story I heard while conducting research for this trip. It discussed the importance of wearing bear bells while hiking in the forest to alert bears of your presence, and to always carry bear OC spray. Equally important was the ability to distinguish Black Bear scat (poop) from Brown/Grizzly Bear scat. It is said that Black Bear scat is filled with nuts and berries and smells like nectar, while Brown/Grizzly Bear scat is full of bear bells and smells like pepper. I think it was a joke, I hope.
During the bear presentation, the otherwise attentive crowd suddenly got to their feet and shouted “Whale.” A large (aren’t they all?) Humpback whale was passing northbound directly adjacent to the starboard (right) side of the ship. It was a truly magnificent sight. It’s not uncommon to see whales on this journey, but to see one so close to the ship was a real treat. The naturalist told us that the Alaskan Humpback whales winter in the Hawaiian Islands and migrate back to the food-rich Alaskan feeding grounds in the summer. The fasted documented return trip from Hawaii to Alaska by a Humpback whale is 28 days. That’s a pretty good pace. We also saw a pod of porpoise approaching the ship, but it was somewhat anticlimactic after the whale sighting.
We made port in Sitka, AK. at 1100 hours for a short three-hour visit, not to be confused with a three-hour cruise, ala Gilligan’s Island. Sitka was the former Russian capital of Alaska before the US purchased it in a move known as Seward’s Ice Box, or Seward’s Folly. The Russians found that Sitka was a rich hunting ground for the prized Sea Otter that had been nearly hunted to extinction in Russia for their pelts. There is still a strong Russian influence in Sitka, with street names, businesses, and curios. There is also an impressive Russian Orthodox Church in the center of town, as well as the Sitka Pioneers Home, probably the largest building in all of Sitka, resembling a large hotel.
Another interesting relic of old Sitka is the reconstructed Fort Tower where the Russians defended their claim to Sitka against the indigenous Tlingit people in a series of fierce battles, which initially drove the Russians out of Sitka. Two years later the Russians returned with a superior force and cannons to reclaim their ill-gotten possession.
Also during the naturalist's presentation, we traversed the Sergius Narrows, where one could nearly reach out and touch the trees going past the ship on either side. The naturalist explained that the three hour layover in Sitka was necessary because of the tides. Apparently, the tides flow through the Sergius Narrows with such velocity, oftentimes exceeding eight knots, that it is not safe to navigate a large ship through the narrows except during times of slack tide where the tide is neither coming in nor going out. Whatever the reason, we appreciated the three hour layover in Sitka.
The naturalist also brought our attention to a small island approaching on the port (left) side of the Narrows where he said the only Pink Flamingos in Alaska are known to exist. The group crowded the port side windows to get a look at such a rare sight. The Naturalist snickered to himself as the island came to bear. There in the tallest tree on the island was a “family” of plastic Pink Flamingos. He got us good on that one.
Some of the passengers were grousing about the low clouds and light rain today. The naturalist replied that, “There is no bad weather in Alaska, only bad gear. So, only your jackets should get dampened, not your spirit.” We should all have such a positive attitude.
We finished the evening aboard the “Columbia” with a nice dinner and after-dinner drinks in the lounge with “Tony," our favorite and only bartender. Although tipping is not allowed on the state owned and operated ferry, we left a few dollars for Tony's disposition. He said," Thanks, I do a lot of work with un-wed mothers," with a wink of an eye. I'm not sure what that meant and I didn't inquire further.
As we travel farther south, the days are beginning to get shorter. We actually saw our first sunset before midnight in two weeks.
1 comment:
John,
Congratulations on a great accomplishment. The site was tremendous and the story is worth publishing even if it's just for friends and bikers.
Have a restful 4th and hello to Flossy.
Bob Goble
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